“They say how you do anything is how you do all things. My surfing is like that. It’s an expression of my life. With my surfing career, trying was never the hard part. The fire and the passion were ...

Beginner surfing lessons are miserable and anyone who tells you anything different is lying to you in an effort to seem carefree and adventurous. I believed those words for a very long time. I’ve ...

I never thought I would learn how to surf, especially in my 30s. I’ve always loved the ocean and boogie boarding, but I was terrified of surfing after a bad experience I had as a kid. In January, my ...